Herb Companion Planting Chart: What Grows Well Together

The Herb Companion Planting Chart

Companion planting is one of the oldest, most effective tricks in the garden — and herbs are its secret weapon. Long before synthetic pesticides, growers learned that tucking certain herbs among their vegetables could repel aphids, confuse cabbage moths, draw in predatory wasps, and lift pollination across the whole plot. The herbs you choose to grow do far more than season your food — they quietly defend and feed everything around them.

This chart maps 20 common herbs three ways: which vegetables each herb protects, which herbs pair happily with each other, and which ones — mint, fennel, wormwood — have to be kept apart. Understanding the “why” matters more than memorizing the grid, so deep dives, a layout plan, herb-to-herb groupings, and climate-by-climate adjustments follow below. Growing vegetables alongside your herbs? Those relationships shift once vegetables lead the bed, so they get their own reference, linked just below this chart.

Browse all herb seed categories →

How Herb Companion Planting Works — the Science

Companion planting with herbs is not folklore dressed up as gardening advice. A handful of clear, repeatable mechanisms explain the best pairings, and knowing them lets you make your own smart decisions instead of leaning on a chart.

Aromatic Oils & Pest Confusion

Most culinary herbs produce volatile organic compounds that give them their scent — and those same compounds interfere with the olfactory signals flying insects use to locate host plants. A cabbage moth navigating by scent gets confused when thyme or sage grows nearby, because the mix of aromas masks the crop’s chemical signature. The key is density: a single sage plant 2 m (6 ft) away does little, but a row of sage interleaved along the bed edge creates a scent corridor that measurably cuts pest pressure without any sprays. For the border-planting technique that gets the most out of it, see our guide to growing sage.

Umbellifer Flowers & Beneficial Insects

Dill, cilantro, parsley, and fennel all belong to the carrot family (Apiaceae), and their flat-topped flower clusters are one of the most valuable resources you can offer beneficial insects. Parasitic wasps, hoverflies, lacewings, and ground beetles all rely on nectar from small open flowers to survive as adults, even though their larvae devour pests. Dill in flower in early summer draws in parasitic wasps just as caterpillar and aphid populations ramp up. Let a portion of your herb patch bolt each season, and stagger sowings so something is always in bloom from June through September. Our guide to growing dill covers succession timing.

Allelopathy in the Herb Garden

Not all herb chemistry benefits nearby plants. Allelopathy is when a plant releases compounds that inhibit neighbouring species, and several common herbs are potent allelopaths. Fennel’s root exudates suppress germination in most vegetables. Wormwood and mugwort produce absinthin that harms tender plants in close proximity. Understanding this tells you where to put them: fennel at the far perimeter, wormwood as a border sentinel only, mint always in containers. Our guide to growing fennel covers keeping it productive in isolation.

Pollinator Attraction & Yield

Lavender, anise hyssop, valerian, catnip, and lemon balm are among the most effective pollinator attractors you can grow, and their impact reaches well beyond their own patch. A lavender plant in flower can draw dozens of bumblebees an hour into an area that also holds your tomatoes, squash, and peppers. The trick is staggering bloom times so something is always flowering: chamomile in spring, dill and cilantro in late spring, lavender and anise hyssop at midsummer, basil and lemon balm in late summer. A garden that feeds pollinators reliably all season sees noticeably higher yield from any pollination-dependent crop. Our guide to growing lavender has the detail.

Which Herb Fights Which Pest

Match the pest you are fighting to the herb that disrupts it. Each pairing below leans on a documented active compound — plant the herb close enough for that compound to reach the crop.

Which Herbs Grow Well Together — and Which to Keep Apart

Herbs pair with each other the same way they pair with vegetables: by shared needs and compatible chemistry. The simplest rule is to group herbs by how much sun, water, and drainage they want — drought-loving Mediterranean herbs in one zone, moisture-lovers in another — and to isolate the few that spread or suppress their neighbours. The profile table below is your grouping key.

Herbs That Pair Well With Each Other

Three natural groupings do most of the work. The Mediterranean group — thyme, oregano, sage, lavender, and rosemary — all want full sun, lean soil, and sharp drainage, so they thrive shoulder to shoulder in a dry sunny border and ask for almost nothing. The umbellifer group — dill, cilantro, parsley, and chervil — share moderate water and open flower heads, and clustering them concentrates the beneficial insects they recruit. The moisture group — basil, chives, and parsley — likes richer, damper soil and slots neatly among tomatoes and peppers. Chamomile, lemon balm, valerian, and anise hyssop are easygoing pollinator herbs that pair with almost anything. Match herbs by the soil and water they want and most pairings look after themselves.

Herbs to Keep Apart

A short list of herbs cause trouble when planted together — through allelopathy, competing chemistry, or sheer aggression. Keep these pairings separated, and the rest of the herb bed runs smoothly.

Companion Planting by Herb — Deep Dives

The chart gives you the quick answer. These deep dives give you the reasoning, the placement, and the containment strategy for the herbs whose companion relationships matter most.

Basil

The basil-tomato pairing is the most studied in the companion-planting literature. Basil’s volatile compounds — linalool, eugenol, and estragole — appear to confuse aphids and thrips, both common tomato pests, and the two share similar water and warmth needs, making them natural bed partners. Tuck basil at the base of tomato cages rather than in a separate row; close proximity strengthens the interaction. Keep it away from sage, which seems to inhibit it through competing volatile chemistry. Genovese and sweet basil are the most vigorous companions, while Thai basil extends the benefit later into the season. Our guide to growing basil covers varieties, pinching, and timing.

Dill & Cilantro

Dill and cilantro are arguably the two most useful companion herbs in any vegetable garden — not for what they repel, but for what they attract. Their open flower clusters are among the best nectar sources for the parasitic wasps, hoverflies, and lacewings that prey on caterpillars, aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. Letting a portion of your dill and cilantro bolt and flower does more for pest control than harvesting every leaf. One caveat: flowering dill crosses readily with fennel, so keep them at least 3–5 m (10–15 ft) apart if you save seed from either, and hold dill back from carrots once it flowers. Our guide to growing cilantro covers slowing the bolt.

Parsley & Chives

Parsley is documented to improve asparagus yields when interplanted closely — a relationship strong enough to be a standard permaculture recommendation — and it hosts black swallowtail butterfly larvae while drawing in beneficial insects. Chives, a member of the allium family, produce sulphur compounds that deter aphids, spider mites, and carrot fly, especially effectively when planted in rings around carrot rows. Chives are also among the first herbs to flower in spring, feeding early bees before most other companions are established. Keep both away from beans and peas — alliums inhibit legume nitrogen fixation. Our guide to growing parsley goes deeper on its companion role.

Thyme, Oregano & Marjoram

Thyme, oregano, and marjoram produce volatile oils — thymol, carvacrol, and linalool — that are among the most potent natural insect deterrents in the herb garden. Planted along the edges of brassica beds, they build an aromatic barrier against cabbage moths, flea beetles, and whitefly, and thyme has strong research support for reducing cabbage looper damage as a border plant. Oregano’s dense spreading habit makes a useful living mulch, so a mixed thyme-and-oregano border along a sunny bed edge is low-maintenance and compounds in value each year. In Zone 4 and colder, treat them as annuals or overwinter them in pots; marjoram is the least cold-hardy and is best grown as an annual across most of North America. Our guide to growing thyme covers ground-cover strategy and winter hardiness.

Mint

Mint is one of the most effective pest deterrents in the herb garden — menthol and related compounds confuse aphids, ants, and flea beetles with measurable results. The catch is containment: mint will overtake a bed if left unchecked, crowding out everything else. The fix is containers positioned strategically among your crops — a pot by the brassicas, another by the tomatoes, one at the greenhouse door covers most scenarios. Peppermint is the stronger deterrent thanks to its higher menthol content; spearmint is milder and more culinary. Propagate from cuttings to expand your container population indefinitely. Our guide to growing mint covers containment in detail.

Lavender & Catnip

Lavender and catnip fill a similar niche — both are powerful pollinator attractors that simultaneously repel a range of insect pests. Lavender’s linalool is toxic to aphids on contact and confuses moths near brassicas, and its flowers pull in bumblebees and solitary bees in enormous numbers. Catnip’s nepetalactone is a potent deterrent that beats DEET against aphids, beetles, and ants in laboratory comparisons, and it is especially valuable near squash for deterring squash bugs. Like mint, catnip spreads, so a single clump at the corner of the squash bed is more manageable than planting it throughout. Our guide to growing catnip covers siting and containment.

Sage & Rosemary

Sage is the premier brassica companion. Its volatile oils — thujone, camphor, and cineole — are potent cabbage-moth and cabbageworm deterrents, with studies documenting real reductions in cabbage looper egg-laying when sage is interplanted at high density. Sage also deters bean beetles and its flowers feed beneficial insects as other herbs wind down in late summer. Rosemary works the same sunny, drought-tolerant border and shares sage’s love of lean soil, so the two make natural neighbours. Keep sage away from basil (competing terpenoid chemistry) and cucumbers. In Zone 5 and above sage is perennial; below that, treat it as a hardy annual or overwinter it indoors.

Fennel

Fennel’s allelopathic root exudates — chiefly anethole and fenchone — inhibit nearly every common vegetable and herb in its root zone, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and basil included, and the effect reaches 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) from an established plant. The fix is placement: grow fennel in a dedicated bed at the garden perimeter where its roots will not intersect other crops. From there it earns its keep — its tall umbels draw exceptional numbers of lacewings and parasitic wasps, and it hosts black swallowtail larvae alongside parsley and dill. Isolated and in flower, fennel is a net asset; mixed through the beds, it is a net liability.

Wormwood & Lemon Balm

Wormwood is most valuable as a perimeter plant, where its absinthin-loaded foliage strongly deters slugs, moths, and flying beetles — slugs in particular avoid crossing a band of it, making it the most reliable slug barrier in the herb garden for beds of lettuce, seedlings, and strawberries. Lemon balm takes the opposite approach: its citronellal and geraniol are well-documented attractants for bumblebees and honeybees through the whole flowering period, so plant it near squash and peppers to lift pollination visits. Cut it back hard after first flowering to force a second flush and prevent self-seeding. Our guide to growing lemon balm covers cutting back and containment.

Designing a Garden That Uses Herbs Strategically

Knowing which herbs help which crops is only useful if your layout lets you act on it. These three design frameworks turn the principles into plantable configurations.

The Kitchen Herb Bed

A kitchen herb bed nearest the house need not sacrifice companion function. Group the Mediterranean herbs — thyme, oregano, marjoram, and sage — along the sunny edge facing the vegetable garden, where their aromatic volatiles drift toward your brassicas and tomatoes on warm afternoons. Set parsley, chives, and basil in the centre where they are easy to harvest, and tuck cilantro and dill at the far end with room to bolt. Containers of mint around the outside give companion benefit without soil invasion. Herbs you actually harvest stay better maintained and produce more of the volatile oils that make them useful companions.

The Herb Defence Border

A strategic herb border around the main vegetable garden creates an aromatic barrier that flying pests must cross before reaching your crops. The outer edge — the first line pests hit — carries the most deterrent herbs: wormwood (contained), lavender, and sage. The inner edge, closest to the vegetables, carries crop-specific companions: basil along the tomato side, dill and cilantro along the brassica side, chives along the carrot rows, savory along the bean rows. Low thyme and oregano at ground level shelter ground beetles — voracious slug predators — while lavender and anise hyssop in flower pull in hoverflies and parasitic wasps all season.

Companion Herbs in Containers & Small Spaces

Companion planting works at any scale, balconies and small urban plots included. The most impactful container companions are mint (containerized anyway), basil beside tomatoes, and one umbellifer — dill or cilantro — left to flower in a large central pot to pull in beneficial insects. A lavender pot at each end of a balcony provides pollinator draw across the whole space. Position aromatic herb containers level with or slightly upwind of the crops you want to protect so volatile compounds drift toward the target, and keep them well watered — drought-stressed plants make far less of the oil that does the work. For year-round production under lights, see our guide to growing herbs indoors.

Companion Herb Growing by Climate & Region

The pairings in this chart hold everywhere — what changes by region is how you execute them: which herbs survive the winter, when to plant them, and which pests you are actually fighting. A grower in Zone 3 and a grower in the low desert use the same chart but make very different calls. These three climate filters cover the major North American growing realities.

❓ Herb Companion Planting FAQ

📚 Related Growing Guides